Ortiz, PilarGómez Morón, María AuxiliadoraGarrido, M. S.Gil Torrano, AndreaToro Murillo, Laura CaridadAbreu, D.Palma, J. A.2026-01-192026-01-192025Ortiz, P., Gómez-Morón, M.A., Garrido, M.S. et al. Interdisciplinary study of 16th-century Spanish court woman fashion, gemstones, and Virgen del Rosario dress. npj Herit. Sci. 13, 624 (2025). https://doi.org/10.1038/s40494-025-02192-x10.1038/s40494-025-02192-xhttps://hdl.handle.net/10433/25666A. Gil-Torrano thanks to PTA2021-020047-I, financed by MCIN/AEI/10.13039/501100011033 and the European Social Fund (FSE+). This study has been carried out with the AMBU-LAB equipment and funds of the research team PAI TEP-199 (Junta de Andalucia)Woman clothing and gemstones of the Spanish court of 16th and 17th-century symbolized the power through the fashion. The Virgen del Rosario’s dress, compared with portraits of queens and infantas of this period, provides a crucial visual record of period attire and adornment and serves as a basis for investigating the originality and later interventions. This study applies an integrated historical, artistic and material approach, combining non-invasive techniques such as Raman, FTIR, XRF and SEM-EDS analysis. Comparative analysis links the observation of clothing and jewelry in portraits with the morphological and chemical examination of the gemstones set in the 17th-century metallic Virgin’s dress. Results indicate at least three historical phases of interventions on the dress: gemstones contemporary with the original manufacture featuring mounted on their crowns and modified dutch cuts; doublet or triplet stones with brilliant cuts; and more recent, emerald-cut glass, providing insights into the dress’s restorations and modifications.application/pdfenAttribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 Internationalhttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/Women's fashionGemstonesVirgen del RosarioCutChemical analysisjournal articleopen access